On the way to Khujand, Tajikistan

Right after breakfast, we left for Tajikistan. Our guide gave us quite a bit of information on the way. I will try to share some of it with you. First, a very concise and brief history.

6th-3rd century BCE. Persian Empire

Alexander the Great Greco-Bactrian. 4th century BCE

1st century BCE. Kushan Empire

4th century CE Huns invaded

7th century CE China tried to conquer area 

8th century CE Islam invasion

11th century CE Mongol invasion

Late 12th century CE Khwarezmid Empire 

Early 19th century. England and Russia involve themselves in the region, intending to expand their territories. The power struggle in central Asia between these two empires comes to referred to as the “great game“.

20th century Soviet

1991 collapse of Soviet Union 

Other miscellaneous information

Uzbekistan 70% flat

Traditional for a groom to plant poplars so that when is children grow up he will have wood to built them a house. 

Got Silkworms from China and developed a silk industry.

Silk paper comes from bark of mulberry tree which can last for thousands of years.

Our guide’s wife chose to start wearing a hijab during Covid. Many other women also made that choice during that time. Seems to be more of a cultural choice.

Here are some pictures taken from the bus (might have some reflections in these pictures) and of the border crossing.

Apartment building
Our guide showed us how the Aral Sea is shrinking overtime.
The Aral Sea stands at the boundary between Kazakhstan to the north and Uzbekistan to the south. It was once a large saltwater lake of Central Asia and the world’s fourth largest body of inland water.
Past many fields of cotton
Small village
Small mosque
Homes
Mountains in the distance
These burros couldn’t decide which side of the border to be on.
Just in case some of you have never seen a squat toilet. Very common in Asia.

Once we cross the border, we made the short ride into Khujand where we had lunch. On the way our new guide for Tajikistan gave us some interesting information.

Language similar to Persian language but uses Cyrillic alphabet 

Have a small Jewish population. About 50000

Population of country mostly secular 

After the collapse of the Soviet Union in 1991 there was a Civil War between Islam and the secular population which ended in 1997.

Tajikistan shares a long border in south with Afghanistan. 50000 refugees from Afghanistan 

Citizens cannot buy or sell weapons. 

Compulsory 2 year military service. 1 year only if you go to college. Not required if only son.

Many men go to work in Russia to avoid service. Return when 27 years old

947 rivers. 93% mountainous 

Export onions and potatoes 

Import fruits 

Do not trade with Afghanistan because of how they treat women 

Uzbekistan does trade with Afghanistan.

Unfortunately they still mine, use and export coal.

School from 7-17 years, wear uniforms.

30% of members of Parliament are women

Women retire at 58, men at 63. Want to make it 65

The National Assembly is the upper chamber of Tajikistan’s bicameral parliament. It has 33 members: 25 elected for a five-year term by deputies of local majlisi and 8 appointed by the president. The lower chamber with 63 members elected for a five-year term.

The upper chamber makes the law which then goes to lower chamber for approval and then to president for approval.

2017 outlawed Islamist party

Unfortunately President is like a dictator because he has been serving unlimited 5 year terms. New law says that the presidents term is limited to one 7 year term. His term then will be over in a couple of years and it is going to be interesting to see what happens. He has eliminated most of the opposition. He appears to be respected by some of the people of the country.

Energy independent.  

Pass exam tuition free to university 

Government pension about 200-300 dollars per month

 NO public health system   Pay on a scale. 

Khujand has about 300000 people 

Capital of Tajikistan has about 1 million people.

Pictures from lunch.

Ceiling of room we had lunch in.
Tajikistan style potato salad. Also very good.
Chicken, vegetable stew, very delicious
Our cute little Tajikistani bus. Since we will be using this bus to go over the mountains, it has to be smaller.

Our first stop in Khujand is the Arbob Cultural Palace located in the central building of a former Soviet collective farm. It comprises a theater, museum, a hall that seats 1000, fountains and formal gardens. The palace is the site where independence from the Soviet Union was declared. It is considered a great example of 1950s architecture in Tajikistan. Became historical in 1992 when meeting of parliament elected the president after fall of Soviet rule. 

Looking out from the steps of the palace
The person on the right is the president Emomali Rahmon who is 72 years old and has been president since 1994. He also holds the title of founder of peace and national unity. Presidential elections in Tajikistan have consistently been criticized by international observers as unfair and favoring the ruling party. The man on the left is Ismoil Somoni who is the national hero of Tajikistan and after who the country’s currency is named. 
The auditorium
Our guide telling us about his country. The images on the curtain have all kind of symbolism.  
More detail of the curtain
Part of ceiling
A loom located in the museum of the palace.

We next explored the Muslihiddin memorial complex. A 12th century, leader and poet, Muslihiddin Khudjandi is buried here in the complex, which has been rebuilt many times since his burial. Today the complex includes a 16 century mosque and a 19th century minaret, as well as the poet mausoleum. In the same area of the complex is a major bazaar.

Inside mosque
The dome
A woman and her granddaughter wearing traditional dress.
Small merry-go-round located in the outside bazaar
Another of those toy cars for kids to ride around in
Nuts
Great bread
More bread
A statue of Ismoil Somoni

We then visited the historical museum of Sogdiana. The entrance is part of a reconstructed medieval city gate. Displays here include ancient Sofdian artifacts and exhibits for more recent Tajik history.

Statue of Timur Malik, who was famous for resisting the Mongol invasion in 1219 and 1220
This room contains a number of modern marble mosaics, depicting the life of Alexander, the great. this mosaic is a picture of Alexander as a student with Aristotle.
This was a depict, the death of Alexander, the great.
Diorama of a stone age community
Upper jaw of a southern elephant cranium
A replica of a creature from a pre-Islam Temple.
Another replica from the same.

We then walked from the museum to our hotel, which was through the grounds of the Timurmalik Fortress, which is a 10th century citadel restored in 1999. Archaeological excavations around the walls have uncovered artifacts from the fourth century BCE.

There is a nice park adjacent to the fortress
The mound on the right is the original remains of the fortress. 
A view of the park
A gondola that goes over the park

I was on the 10th story of our hotel. There were spectacular views of the city from up there. Here are some pictures of the view during the day and later during sunset and the evening.

After settling in at the hotel, our bus took us over to a restaurant by the museum.

Salad course
The bread on the right was to die for
Delicious meatball soup
The vegetarian option of roasted vegetables with balsamic reduction.

Again, we chose to walk by the fortress and through the park to the hotel. This time it was at night.

A local person wanted to take a picture with us. One of my fellow travelers Elizabeth is on my right. The people are so friendly and welcoming here.
Our hotel

As it turned out, there was a wedding occurring in our hotel. We actually saw the bride and groom having pictures taken in the park after we got out of the museum. There were these trumpeters at the hotel. When we returned from dinner, the wedding was going on inside the hotel. As we left the next morning, there were trumpeters, greeting the male guests of the party who were coming to say blessings for the bride and groom.

Welcoming guests to the wedding
I quickly sneaked a shot of the wedding celebration itself.
The next morning, greeting male guests who came to get blessings for the bride and groom.

Here is what our guide told us about marriages and weddings.

Weddings are now limited to 150 guests. Used to be up to 1000. Government said too much money is being spent so limited guests. On morning of wedding guests go to visit bride and groom. Bring honey to wish them a sweet life. Groom pays for wedding. Next morning men gather to get blessings for bride and groom. Limited to 200 men. First 40 days are special. Need to be careful not to bring bad vibes. Get health evaluation before marriage. Very low divorce rates. Hard to get a divorce. It definitely was so cool to experience what we were able to see of this wedding. 

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