Khiva

Khiva is our last stop in Uzbekistan. Tomorrow we go to Turkmenistan. It is my understanding that in Turkmenistan Wi-Fi is not always available. So this might be my last post till I get to Frankfurt on Wednesday. Khiva’s old town is a walled ancient city. We spent the day exploring the town on foot. I took many pictures, but unfortunately, for some pictures, I don’t know what I was taking pictures of.

One bad thing about Khiva is that it had an active slave trade which dates back to the 13th century and functioned until the 1880s. Our guide was a source of some crazy information about this. For example, the slaves were Russian or Cossack. A man was worth 4 horses or 2-3 camels. Ladies 1-2 sheep. Children 1-2 chickens. Healthy boy could be worth up to one horse. Also traded for commodities like rice. All of this of course is very useful information.

One of the women on the trip went out at sunrise and took some pictures that I was able to get from her. Here they are.

At 9:00, the group walked mostly along the southern wall and halfway up the west side to enter at the western gate. Here are some pictures taken on that part of our walk.

West gate
Statues of a caravan letting people know that Khiva was on the Silk Road. 

Once inside, we were greeted by a view of the unfinished mineret. It was going to be one of the biggest minerets in the world, but then the ruler of Samarkand made them stop building it.

Unfinished mineret

Throughout the old city, of course there are all kinds of merchants trying to sell stuff. The next picture is our guide modeling a hat that is used in the summertime because the sheep’s wool comes down and protects your eyes.

He then showed us some examples of the twin inverted triangle Zoroastrian symbol.
It is believed that these triangles, also called Zoroastrian butterflies, represent the major beliefs of Zoroastrian religion: good thoughts, good words, and good deeds. Zoroastrians  “believe that there is a continuous war between the good forces (forces of light) and the evil forces (forces of darkness). The good forces will win if people will do good deeds, think good and speak well”.

Here are some street scenes.

Entrance to the Kunya Ark Palace 

The Kunya Ark was originally built in the 12th century as the khan’s fortress and residence, and encompass numerous small courtyards, surrounded by administrative buildings, sleeping quarters, kitchens, guard house, stables, parade area, and weapon stronghold. Much of it was lost when Persia invaded the Khivan Khanate in the 18th century, but what remains, including the mosque, harem and throne room are beautifully decorated with ceramic tiles and majolica (a form of pottery).

Here are some pictures taken inside the fortress.

Archaeological excavation 
On the other side of the wall is the unfinished mineret.
An outside prayer area
We even had some entertainment in the courtyard
Some of the tile work
Zoroastrian symbols on one of the walls. 

There is a museum inside one of the buildings. Here are a couple of pictures from inside the museum.

A picture depicting the coronation of the ruler. He is carried in and placed on the throne chair.
Warrior from that era
The next picture contains the names of the people depicted by the statues. I am mainly showing this picture to give you an idea of the dress style for men at this time.
Look who we ran into outside the fortress. Our guide says he looks very proud because he has four wives.

Our next stop was the Dzhuma Mosque. The mosque is partially below ground level and has 118 carved columns to support the wooden ceiling creating a forest like effect around two square light wells.

This mosque is just exquisite.
Details of the top of one of the columns and a view of the wood ceiling.
During Covid, the mosque was closed. It turns out that having people in the building brought some moisture to the room. Without people and lack of moisture, the columns started cracking.
They are repairing the columns by inserting a strip of the same identical wood into the splits.

Some more street scenes.

There are actual people living in the old city. Here is one house with laundry hanging outside and a baby carriage.

Our next stop is the Tash Hauli Palace built in the 1830s.

The khan lived on the left side with his four wives just like our camel friend. The harem lived on the right side.
Looking up to the second story and a view of another beautiful wooden roof
Three women, sitting in one of the alcoves, providing entertainment. Their clothing and hair pieces are just beautiful.
Again, some statues depicting men of that era
The roof in one of the harem rooms. 

More street scenes.

There was a wedding party in the middle of the street. These women were dancing around the bride. There was also a group of men dancing. Notice the somber look of the bride. She is trying not to show any enjoyment because she wants to make sure that she keeps off the evil eye. If she’s enjoying herself, the evil eye might come and ruin things for her.
Too cute

We next visited a place that makes silk carpets.

Dyed silk. They only use natural dyes.
The silk in our guides left hand is straight from the cocoon, and the silk in the right hand has been boiled.

More street scenes

The doors were open, so I took a picture of the courtyard of this house.

Lunchtime.

Nice dessert, but I have no idea what it was except that it did have strawberry stuff on the top.

After lunch, I made some purchases and then went back to my room

At 6 o’clock a group of us went back to the Kunya Ark Fortress to watch the sunset. We climbed up to the top of the wall. Unfortunately the sunset turned out to be quite a dud. The sun just simply went down behind some clouds without producing any color. However, I did take a number of pictures up there.

The camera made this look better than it really looked in person

Then it was dinner time.

Tomato with fried eggplant

The main course was some meat and noodles and we did have a nice squash soup. I really enjoy our first course of salads, but I am really getting tired of the main entrées. We were entertained during dinner. The group seemed to be a family because the two women look like sisters and they had this young boy perform also.

They actually coaxed some of our people to come up and dance. Jamie on the right really seems to be enjoying herself.
One last view of the city. We leave in the morning for Turkmenistan. 

2 thoughts on “Khiva

  1. I know nothing about that part of the world, but these latest pictures are so beautiful. The street scenes look like movie sets.

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