Tashkent, Uzbekistan

Tashkent is a very old city dating back to the second century BCE. Tashkent has 3 1/2 million people. It is a relatively modern city today that is quite clean and has very wide streets. Also a lot of traffic. I forgot to mention that central Asia has a lot of cars that have right hand driving wheels. This is because they’ve imported a lot of used cars from Japan and Japan like Britain drives on the left side of the road. Another interesting fact is Tashkent has a lot of basil growing all over the place, but they don’t use basil in cooking very much. One striking difference in Uzbekistan is that they use the Roman alphabet instead of the Cyrillic alphabet. This at least makes it easier to read things, but I still don’t know what I’m reading. Today in the park while I was waiting for our leader, I went over to talk to two young girls to ask them what they were eating. They were eating corndogs and they spoke English. They thought it was great to be able to talk to an American. Of course I enjoyed talking with them. Our first stop of the day was at the Shahid Memorial complex with its blue domed Rotonda. It is a memorial for the leaders, artist and poets who were shot in 1938 during Stalin’s purges.

We next visit the Tillya Sheikh mosque where the Uthman Quran, considered by Sunni Muslims to be the oldest Quran in the world, is safeguarded in the library. This Quran is written on deerskin 19 years after Mohammed‘s death. Unfortunately, they did not allow pictures. We did however walk around the site and see the Madrassah and Mosque.

Madrassah
Mosque

Near the site we walked down a local street to see what typical houses look like. Houses are pretty closed off from the street but have courtyards inside. So it’s really hard to get pictures as to how the houses look.

We then went to the Chorsu Bazaar where traders, and shoppers come in from outlying areas to buy and sell everything from spices and produce to woodwork and embroidery. Unfortunately, I left my cell phone in the bus so I don’t have any pictures. One thing I wish I had a picture of was a stack of lambs tongues. They were about 4 or 5 inches long.

One of my fellow travelers, AirDrop me this picture of the bakery in the bazaar.

Next, we made a stop at a private studio of a sixth generation Uzbek ceramist, whose family has been making pottery since the 1790s and has kept alive the art of using natural dyes. The ceramist also teaches children from the ages of 5 to 12.

His wife working on painting a plate.
Pot made by a five-year-old. 
Elephant made by a seven-year-old.
Samples of small plates made at the shop
Sample of tiles and some pots made at the site.
The ceramist and his grandfather, also a ceramist.
A beautiful plate
A beautiful bowl
Pots waiting in the kiln to be fired.
Courtyard at the ceramist shop
Another beautiful piece of pottery

After this wonderful morning, it was time for lunch. This place had the greatest appetizers, eggplant rolls, fried cauliflower, beet salad, and samosas stuffed with cheese and tomatoes. The main course was chicken and potatoes. The chicken was definitely seasoned with cumin and paprika. The potatoes were very tasty. I am really impressed with the food I’ve been having here in central Asia. I wasn’t expecting much and boy am I surprised.

After lunch, we made a quick stop at a memorial commemorating the victims of an earthquake.

Memorial commentating survivors of earthquake in 1966. It was built in 1975 during the Soviet era. It is definitely in the Soviet style.

We then visited the applied arts museum, built by a wealthy czarist diplomat to Turkistan, Alexander Polovtsev, who admired Uzbek architecture. In 1898 he built this traditional mansion and invited artisans from Samarkand, Bukhara and Fergana to decorate the interior. Exhibits include the Uzbek embroidered wall coverings called suzani, ceramics, jewelry, rugs, and musical instruments. The house itself is also part of the exhibit.

Suzani wall embroidery
19th century wall embroidery
Early 20th century woman’s robes
Early 20th century woman’s wear and covering for her face.
Ceramic tile decoration in the entryway
Ceiling
Ceiling
Ceiling
Early 20th century jewelry
20th century gold appliqué work
Used for water. Man’s on left with handle, woman’s on right without handle because she needs to use both hands to pour the water showing respect for the man. Just got to love that misogyny.
Entrance to the home and museum. Polovtsev’s mother was Jewish.

Our last activity of the day was to ride the metro, which was surprisingly clean.

An attempt to erase a hammer and sickle in the tunnel

One thought on “Tashkent, Uzbekistan

Leave a comment